Five Day Travel.Com First Day
The first day in New Orleans, a city of marked French and Spanish accent, explore the history of this fascinating destination. Founded by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne in 1718, it was owned by Spain (1762-1801), and led by a governor who reported to the Captain General of Cuba. In 1801 France takes possession of the city, and in 1803 Napoleon sells to the US.
Omni Royal Orleans • French Quarter
Populated by Europeans, American and German Creoles who arrived after the purchase of Louisiana, Africans and Afro-Caribbeans, New Orleans became a multicultural city. Cuba also influenced its cultural due to the constant trade and exchanges between Havana and New Orleans. The city’s first bishop, Ignatius Luis Penalver, was born in Havana. The founder of Cienfuegos, Cuba, was born in New Orleans. The Cuban patriot Narciso Lopez managed to organize an expedition of 750 men in New Orleans to liberate Cuba, in 1850, and another in 1851. Other important Cuban patriots, Antonio Maceo and Jose Marti, shared a house in the Treme neighborhood and there is a statue dedicated to Marti at Jefferson Davis Parkway.
Arnaud’s Cafe Brulot
After resting at the luxurious Omni Royal Orleans (AAA Four Diamond), we admired the beautiful view of the city from the rooftop. Located in the French Quarter, the hotel is just steps from the main tourist attractions but, the sounds of the lively neighborhood did not bother us as we relaxed in our comfortable and elegant room on the seventh floor. We recommend the excellent beef of the Rib Room, the hotel restaurant, and its delicious New Orleans cuisine.
The famous writers Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams also lived in the French Quarter. Fascinated by the city, Williams called it his “spiritual home” and its inhabitants have shown their appreciation by holding an annual the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival. It was in New Orleans that he wrote A Streetcar Named Desire, in which New Orleans is almost a character, and Suddenly Last Summer. He was accompanied by the Mexican-born Amado “Pancho” Rodriguez and years later by his most faithful partner, Frank Merlo.
Truman Capote was actually born in New Orleans in 1924. He claimed that his mother left him for hours in a room at the luxurious Hotel Monteleone and that, at the age of five years, he was lost in the middle of Mardi Gras. In the 30s, he returned to the city with his mother and stepfather, the wealthy Cuban-American from New York, Joseph Capote, who adopted the child and changed his name to Truman García Capote. As an adult, he went back to New Orleans throughout the years—to his “secret place”—and he celebrated its attractive atmosphere and its restaurants, which he considered among the best of America.
The French Quarter is famous for its charm. A Spanish courtyard often hides a beautiful fountain. Balconies and galleries adorned with wrought iron enhance the beauty of ancient architecture. Music is everywhere. A woman sings blues accompanied by a violinist. In a café a few old musicians offer a “jazz jam session” worthy of Carnegie Hall. A 10 year old boy tap dances while his brother plays the drums.
There are also pleasant surprises to be found. Rua Antiques allowed us to enter their secret museum, full of valuable and amazing artistic objects and paintings. A waiter at the venerable Antoine’s Restaurant shows private rooms displaying costumes and jewelry worn by the “royalty” of Mardi Gras. Capote sums up the spirit of these streets full of history, colors and sounds, when he quotes an old saying: “Do not worry about life… you’ll never leave it alive.”
New Orleans home in the French Quarter
In Jackson Square we visited the Church of St. Louis and heard live music there, though not the best New Orleans has to offer. The Cabildo Museum at the square exhibits its mask of Napoleon and objects that illustrate the history of New Orleans. The Presbytère or Casa Curial (1813) presents an excellent exhibit on Mardi Gras. Nearby is the New Orleans Market and Cafe du Monde, where you can savor delicious coffee with chicory and beignets.
That evening we enjoyed dinner at BB’s Stage Door Canteen, at the World War II National Museum. The menu included Grits and Shrimp with Fried Oysters “BLT” and the show featured a nostalgic music show 40 with the Victory Belles. Late at night we visited Bourbon Street, a world-renowned pedestrian street of dubious moral history, where abundant live music from jazz, rock and Cajun can be heard at many establishments. The local version of Bourbon Street is Frenchmen Street, to hear authentic jazz, blues and rock.
Victory Belles courtesy of The National WWII Museum
Second day
Sunday jazz brunch at the legendary Commander’s Palace in the Garden District is the best in town. Declared the best restaurant in New Orleans in 2015, this gastronomic temple of the Brennan family is famous for dishes such as turtle soup, Grillade pork with leeks, cognac and “grits” and for the fabulous Souffle Bread Pudding Créole. Opposite is the fascinating Lafayette Cemetery, an inspiration for novelist Anne Rice.
To see excellent plays visit The Petit Theatre in the French Quarter. It has an intimate and elegant atmosphere. We were privileged to see The Bluest Eye, by Toni Morrison, which moved us deeply . Renovated in 2013, this small theater dates from 1916 and occupies its present site since 1922.
Our spectacular dinner at Arnaud’s included Creole Shrimp, Arnaud Creole Remoulade Sauce , Oysters Bienville, Pontchartrain fish, crab Louisiana, Soufflé Potatoes, Bananas Foster and Cafe Brulot , all served with style and great service.
Third day
After breakfast at the charming Court of the Two Sisters , we visited the Historic New Orleans Collection , an excellent window into the past of New Orleans. The residence, in Italian style (1889 ) was restored by General L. Kemper and Leila Williams in 1940. The exhibitions include a tour of the Williams family residence. They lived in these historic buildings and courtyards and created the museum.
A walking tour through the Garden District mansions enabled us to admire beautifully restored mansions built in the Victorian, Italian and Greek Revival styles. Created in 1832, it was the place where rich Americans lived after the Louisiana Purchase. Among the celebrities who own mansions there are: Nicholas Cage, Sandra Bullock and Anne Rice. We also visited nearby Magazine Street, a interesting area with numerous boutiques, historic buildings and welcoming cafes.
For the best in Cajon food, we dined at Cochon, in a renovated warehouse on Tschoupitoulas Street. There we sampled excellent pork dishes, seafood, and fresh vegetables.
Fourth day
To understand how New Orleans life worked in the 19th century—its economy, the life of slave owners and slaves—we visited “Oak Alley Plantation” (1839) and “Laura” (1804-1805). “Laura” is a real gem. It was the home of the Duparc family, typical of the Créole families of that period. The attractive mansion was built by slaves of great skill and it has been preserved just as it was in the 1800s. The women of the Duparc family had as much power as the men. The guide tells the story of Elisabeth Duparc, who sold a man the three-year-old daughter of a slave at the plantation. Emile Locoul, Elisabeth’s son, horrified by the mother’s cruelty, offered twice what the man had paid for the slave in order not to separate her from her mother. His founders’ descendant, Laura Locoul, tells these stories in her memoirs and was so affected by them that she decided to move away from “Laura.”
On our fourth night we visited the elegant Hotel Monteleone and remember Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote at one of their favorite bars, the Carousell. Then we tried delicious dishes at the Monteleone’s modern restaurant, the Criollo, prepared by a talented Hispanic sous-chef.
Fifth day
During the morning our tour of apartments and homes that date back to at least the 19th century, revealed the fascinating stories of the Creole families who lived in the French Quarter, through voluntary actors who dress as historic characters such as Baroness Pontalba.
Later, in the Red City Sightseeing Bus, we visited the Mardi Gras World, where floats and figures of the famous celebration are exhibited. The bus also stops at Harrah’s New Orleans Hotel & Casino; the National Museum of the Second World War; the Magazine Street; Garden District; Art District; and other attractions.
Lunch at Nola, the excellent restaurant created by Emeril Lagasse, demonstrated the genius of this great chef. His fusion of Creole food, Acadia and Southern, enabled us to have a delicious experience.
We said good-bye to New Orleans at August, an exceptional restaurant, housed in an elegant room of a 19th century building. The contemporary French-Creole cuisine created by the famous Chef John Besh and prepared by the Chef Todd Pusinelli, included potato gnocchi, shrimp “Etoufée” roast duck, and fresh vegetables.
Another interesting restaurant, Compere Lapin, whose owner-chef is Nina Compton, formerly a chef in Miami and a Top Chef finalist, offers innovative Nouvelle Créole cuisine. For the freshest seafood and a magnificent Fried Oysters Po-Boy, the best place Grand Isle.
We left New Orleans with sadness but knowing that we will return because this city is an exceptional combination of history, gastronomy, music, multiculturalism and the art of living well.
For additional Information:
New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau
Hotels
Restaurants
Criollo – www.criollonola.com
